Starting odometer: 378
Seeley Lake to Lincoln. 67 miles to go. We sleep until 6:15, and then get up in time for breakfast at 6:30. We have this morning packing stuff down and have our bags by the truck before hitting the food line. Some people left before 6, but in spite of the heat warning (we’ll have to ride in it whether we leave early or not), we’re not hurrying. We leave around 7:45 with Eddy, Anna, and Frank, from Colorado. Frank teaches inmates in prison so they can get their GED, a requirement for parole. Sounds like a very challenging job! As usual, Dwayne is the only one behind us.

We ride back up the same road we came into Seeley Lake on, but continue straight instead of turning up towards the falls. It’s very cool and shady during this section going back through the Swan Mountains. We are feeling fresh and happy. We ride uphill, downhill, constantly around bear scat. We arrive at the first water stop and Eddy gets off his bike and starts dancing around like he’s on a horse, whipping it with the reins, singing the theme song to Bonanza!. Almost all of us join in, laughing at our immaturity. Frank insists that there are words that go with the song, so for the rest of the day, we speculate what those words might be. I think they are “over hill, over dale, across the Great Divide, need a shower, need more power, think I’m going to die”. None of us come up with the actual words, however, I looked them up when I got home and we weren’t even close.

So, yes, the day is starting out fantastic! We exit the mountains and enter a flatter, drier section of Montana. So close to the lushness of Seeley, who would have known that just around the bend there’s sagebrush? The ranch fields are filled with horses and grain. We stop to take it all in. Then we begin the push to Ovando on dusty roads. We are still feeling pretty good. J has left me literally in the dust. The guys surge ahead while Anna and I lag behind. What is my story? Why am I so slow? Did the day off throw off my rhythm? I’m not sure; I think I can see the guys up ahead, but they slowly disappear in the distance.

We cross 200 and ride down the side road into town. Well, isn’t Ovando a great town? There are a handful of buildings surrounding a square that’s more like a circle. I can see town meetings and celebrations of years past going on here. We pull up to the café, complete with a hitching post for horses, aptly called the Stray Bullet. It’s full of charm of days gone by, but has a nice bathroom (thank you café) and delicious huckleberry ice cream. We load up on ice cream, and then Todd and Doug join us.They have been at Trixie’s Bar. Trixie was a roper. They also get some ice cream and seem pretty happy about it.
Now, lunch. We mosey down to the river for one of the most delightful lunch spots of the trip. The water is crystal clear and we are in the shade. I take off my shoes and wade in the water for a little refreshment. We really take our time here and finally push off around 1:45. This next section is all about sunshine, washboard roads, and torture. We stop to get our group back together and Anna announces that her cycle computer reads 104 degrees and, and, and, the sun is going down. Frank does not comprehend how this computer can know so much. I’m just glad it’s going down instead of going up.

We ride and ride down the straightest, bumpiest, dustiest road that seems to never end. We are in the middle of a large flat section and I can no longer tell where we will meet the mountains again. Seems like never. We see very little- a UPS truck kicking up some serious dust, a few dried, flattened unfortunate small animals in the road. Then, we see horses with babies. We’re stopping here. I look at my legs and there’s a line of dirt running down my shins. I announce that I am done with washboard roads. Too bad I have no choice but to continue. We see clouds forming in the distance and all agree that they seem like storm clouds. Better start moving again.

There are two free-range mules hanging out by the side of the road. I know a little about mules: mainly that they are smart and can be mean. I watch to see what happens when the boys go by. The mules start to run away, then quickly turn and seem to charge the boys behind the bikes. Figures. I’m currently riding solo, as Anna is pretty far behind me with Todd. Well, I have some experience with animals, I’ll be fine. I cluck my tongue at the mules as I’m passing, making sure to keep an eye on them. They do the same thing to me and I consider stopping to make nice with them, but decide to keep moving. But, worried about the last crew getting bit in the ass (by an ass!), I stop and get out my camera. I should at least get it on film. Anna doesn’t flinch as she goes by, hardly making eye contact, but Todd wants to make friends. The mules do, but then again, they don’t. The final straw comes with a car kicking up dust as it makes its way towards us. Todd gives up and the mules charge off.


Anna stops with me and the car comes up, carrying two women. I wonder if these locals think we’re lost. Seems to be the case. They ask if we know where we’re going. Yes, up Huckleberry Pass. Anna asks them if they’d like to give us a ride. They smile and drive away. I guess that’s a no. We ride on, stopping to cool off in a creek before hitting the mountains. There’s a mini-water stop at the base of the hills and I’m thrilled to hear the roads on the climb are good and there’s not been much traffic. Yay and yay.

We eat nuts, get water, take photos, and prepare for the 8-mile climb. We can see the roads cut in the hill ahead of us. They seem to be exactly the type J and I trained on. I’m happy. This will not be a killer. We start to climb in a line and in not much time our line is formed based on speed- Eddy, John, me, Frank, Anna. I approach a view of the valley where we just rode and am surprised no one ahead of me has stopped. I stop. Frank catches up and says to me- look at that- we are bad asses! I agree. He cannot stop, however, so he continues to climb. I lag, as I’m worried about a woman left in the rear in such a remote area. Cats, bears, freaks, anything could happen. This is pretty much what happens the rest of the 8 miles. I catch up to J, who agrees with me about Anna, and we ride closer together. Frank goes on and J said that Eddy took off and he hasn’t seen him in ages.

The storm is definitely building ahead of us and it looks like we are going to get wet. Boy, am I glad J talked me out of taking out my rain jacket this morning! We finally arrive at the last water stop, at the top of the hill, at 5:00. Anna arrives and announces that she’s never been through childbirth, but she’s pretty sure it couldn’t be more painful than that. We all laugh and I ponder her statement. Dinner’s supposed to be at 6, but because we’re so slow, they have moved it to 6:30. I do the math, we still have 16 miles to go, and, as usual, it’s not just downhill from here. We had better get going. J is very anxious and he tells me we are not going to be able to wait for everyone.
We start downhill as it begins to rain. Frank pulls over to put on his rain gear. We press on and go as fast as we can. I am a little put out. Our 8-mile climb was all climbing, no flat, no downhill of any kind. This downhill contains an awful lot of uphill. I feel cheated. We are going as fast as we can go and my neck is starting to cramp up. I can hardly turn it to see if anyone is behind us. This downhill quickly turns into flat washboard and we are giving it our all to get it done. I have now overdosed on bumpy. It has become a torture ride and I cannot get my neck in a comfortable position. There are cattle on the road. I send out warm thoughts to them and hope they don’t freak out and run towards me or into the path of my bike. I’m not about to slow down now. I play chicken with a car, as it seems to think that it doesn’t matter if I’m in the cattle guard gate first, they will keep their speed and I zip through before meeting the grill of their Geo.
We turn onto Highway 200 for our last stretch into Lincoln. I have no idea how many miles (or portion of a mile) we rode, but I was done. Done, done, done. I almost start to cry from the pain in my neck (I think it’s more fatigue, in retrospect), but buck up for that last push. I don’t look at Lincoln at all. I feel like a machine, on autopilot. And then I smell steak. The thought that popped in my head will make those of you that have known me as a vegetarian for so long laugh. “Steak! I hope that’s our dinner!” I cruise into the dinner pavilion on steak fumes and suddenly, my neck pain is gone. I’m grubby, smell horrible, am parched, probably cross-eyed, but nothing will get in my way of dinner. I throw down all of my gear as we join the end of the buffet line. I heap my plate full of heavenly delights. Steak! And it’s delicious! I go back for seconds.
Next, map meeting. This is for the *optional* day. I hear all I need to hear in the first line: the first 10 miles in on washboard roads, and it’s a loop, so you’ll ride that section up and back. Ha. 20 miles of washboard road? No thanks. I look at J and shake my head. I’m out! I tell him he can do it if he wants, but there’s no way I’m going.
We have awards and thank the staff for their excellent work, and then it’s back to camp for a shower and bed. The word on the street is that there’s no hot water at the school. Yipee! I’m so disgusting that it’s really not an option to just go without one. I suck it up and have a bit of lukewarm water before it turns icy. Not only is it cold, but also the heads are built for kids, so I have to bend over to put my hair under the stream. Not my finest cleaning, but it will do. J bites the bullet and does the same, then we talk outside the tents, planning breakfast until night falls.

This was my most rewarding day. I feel as if I have done it all. Most importantly, I survived!